Instead of an elongated narrative of the things that have
happened in the past week, I’m just going to directly post information for
you.
Roadblock in front of Jon's house. Burn tire burn!
We haven’t had school in nearly
a week and before that we had maybe 1/3 our students in class for several days.
Our director maintains an open
campus due to national law, but most cannot even get out of their neighborhoods,
let alone make it school.
As of right now there is no for
sure method to make up the lost days. We
can’t add days to the end of the calendar as teachers have flights to catch and
it’s also illegal to have Saturday school.
Last year, after missing time to elections they had to make the days
longer. So that’s fun.
The middle of last week things
got pretty interesting with people becoming more forceful in their protests and
erecting roadblocks to limit travel as well as protect themselves from
paramilitary motorcycle gangs (colectivos).
Specifically, things got pretty
rough in my neighborhood last week with the national guard storming into a
protest firing upon them, helicopters dropping tear gas, guards on motorcycles
removing two people, and taking them into custody. (I was not at my house at
the time of this, but rather at Jon and Randi’s but others in the area gave us
the information)
Many foreign hire teachers have
holed up together during the more tense times.
Jon and Randi are the hosts with the most, as they’ve had tons of people
over to stay, eat, and drink, while providing a forum to
discuss/question/analyze the situation and where everything goes from here.
Definitely indebted to them for their hospitality and chance to work through
this with others.
Several friends have gone to
marches and witnessed first hand the violence and intensity of these
concentrations. Their stories are beyond
my understanding, but I empathize with their desire for a better life. Guardsmen have shot into buildings, damaged
property, and showered crowds with anti-riot ammunition to try to halt protests
and intimidate citizens.
The city of Valencia becomes a
ghost town at night. The normally loud community of 1.5 million people is
coldly silent once the sun sets. The
only noises are the sprinkling of exploding tear gas and shotgun fire echoing
off the mountains throughout the evening/early morning.
San Christobal (western city,
catalyst for the protests) is basically a war zone. The citizens’ days are filled with defending
themselves and preparing for clashes the next day. It has been largely blacked out in terms of
media, but recently the NYT got a reporter and photographer on the ground. (Check out the NYT article below.)
With media blackouts, state
media outlets (radio, TV, print) not reporting on the protest social media have
become the main artery for information exchange. The problem is it still is filled with
misinformation and doctored stories/pictures.
Whole websites have been shut down, luckily things are getting out now.
Ryan and I went walking around
yesterday and had more people come up and speak English to us than ever before
(his 1.5 years and my 6 months). Our
talks focused around them asking us to inform the people back home about the
situation here and us asking how we can get around/what’s open. On other walks
about I’ve seen people preparing for clashes, Molotov cocktails waiting for
use, burning barricades, as well as people trying to go about their daily
lives. It’s a really weird dynamic.
Many people ask us about an
escape plan. There is none. No SEAL team or Ranger unit is going to scoop
us out of danger. Flights before this
were already a huge challenge due to VZ not paying the airlines (resulting in
fewer flights in/out) and with carnival approaching, there are no flights out
(most locals have purchased these tickets over 6 months ago). It’s basically just sit tight and ride it
out. Again, this conflict is different
than many of those occurring across the globe and Americans are not being specifically
targeted. I’ve walked around every day
and checking things out, I got a few looks but most people are cordial and tell
you to stay safe.
The two sides (government and
opposition) are to sit down and hold peace talks in the coming days, but there
is now division among the opposition.
Some want more forceful action, while others want peaceful protests and
dialogue. It will be interesting to see
how this internal issue affects things going forward.
President Maduro has declared
Thursday and Friday holidays to increase the celebration of carnival (and
obviously distract folks not dialed in from the situation at hand).
At this point who knows what will happen and
when we’ll be back to school. If we
don’t have school this week (and part of next week being Carnival Break), we
will have had almost three weeks of no/partial classes. Many of you are probably thinking, “No work?
That’s awesome!” But remember hardly anything is open, there is nowhere to go,
and even less to do.
Jon in front of a roadblock near my house...with a traveler.
Molotov cocktails anyone?
Here's me asking why all these cars are driving on the sidewalk.
Roadblock near Comrade Beggs' house.
Maduro effigy.
Bad idea.
Same bad idea, different angle.
Maduro effigy numero 2.
Maduro effigy #2, angle 2.
News Clips
A New York Times piece and photo essay about the protests (specifically in San Christobal).
CNN article on battle lines being drawn and the call for peace.
Venezuelan MLB players take on the conflict from the Giants, Tigers, and more.
The very informative Caracas Chronicles provides more insight to the scope of this then I can even attempt.
Again, things haven't changed much, but I'm safe and ok, just a little bored.
The sound of horns, spoons to pots/pans, and whistles ride the breeze through my window as the protests and demonstrations end their sixth day.
The atmosphere here is that of a moments prior to a football game. Everyone in the stands know that a collision is going to occur, it's just a matter of how intense and how long. In this case, I don't mean collision as two bodies forcefully impacting each other, though that could happen, but more so the ideas/sides are moving in that direction (again) and the anticipation looms large over each minute.
First and foremost, after talking with the headmaster this afternoon, we (teachers and staff of CIC) are OK. If you don't know what I'm talking about it's OK (I'll post some links at the end of the post), your part of the world isn't too interested with the civil unrest of Venezuela.
Long and short of it, the opposition to the Chavista movement have engaged in a series of demonstrations over the course of nearly a week to show their dissatisfaction (to put it lightly) of the way the current administration is handling things. The rampant food shortages, corruption, inflation, crime, and other issues have been the main points of unrest.
The last four days we have gotten out early and had dwindled attendance in classes. Our percentage of students during these days have hit a high of 43% (secondary) and a low of 3% (elementary), but most are scattered in between. Today we had classes cancelled as the citizenry had set up roadblocks to force a strike against working, while there were two major marches held in the capital of Caracas.
This morning, the sounds of the previous night started early, 4am. The majority of roadblocks were up by 9am while the masses gathered for a march that was to take place at 10am. A group of us foreign hire teachers made the trek to Jon and Randi's house to hangout. We spent most of the day watching people near his house constructing roadblocks out of garbage, tree limbs, boxes, car parts, glass bottles (broken), window frames, doors, broken tiles, and tires. All of which were lit on fire. While we witnessed this construction, we watched streamed CNN, checked twitter, and screened facebook to monitor what was going on. All of the TV stations carried by the government are not showing any footage (except the pro-government march today) and many other media outlets are censored. Twitter and other websites have been altered to withhold images and information from being published on the web. Later our headmaster (superintendent) came over.
He told us he walked all the way to where many of us live and that things were active but safe. He said that only a few businesses were open in the plaza, but we could order Papa Johns if we wanted. We talked about school the next few days and where to go from here. He didn't have the answers, but was constantly checking in with security and local employees on his phone. He told us he would be in touch and he left to head home. Shortly after his stop, we hit the trail back to our apartments before nightfall. Things were starting to build back up and the road home was littered with debris used in making roadblocks.
If I was a betting man, and I am- we won't have school tomorrow.
Here are some images from today. Those of Leopoldo Lopez below (not my pictures) will probably make international news (or the one of him kissing his wife).
National Guard Vehicle
The 'hood.
Lopez
Lopez making his speech before his arrest.
Lopez' view. Not a selfie.
Lopez giving one last show to the people before his jailing.
Roadblock (notice the fire).
The hood again.
Roadblock complete with burning tire.
Another roadblock.
Observations
1. The power of information. Both sides seemingly are trying to use this to promote its cause (obviously), but social media seems to be the great equalizer. Each side uses the various programs to set up gatherings, show pictures of the injured, spread video, and many opposition supporters are tagging famous people and major media to try to generate coverage. If you check out the hashtag #venezuela you'll see tons of pictures and statements from both sides. You don't have to use google translate, but check out the photos. The problem with social media, is you don't know what is real and what is well done photoshopping.
2. Polar division. Remember, oh say the last few US elections? The huge division between both parties due to their move away from the moderation/the middle (yet, strangely enough saying the same thing- check out some of the speeches between Gore and W or Obama and Romney and you'll see). It's polarized even more here, but much more passionate and with much more at stake. In the States, we have other bodies of government that keep others in check (remember the checks and balances lesson in US History?) and keep things moving (or not). Here, they recently gave Maduro power of decree (he doesn't need approval from the other bodies) so the decisions made and issues that result are very caustic to both sides. Basically, it's one side or the other and it's intense. Many blame the government for 15 years of oppression and the laundry list of issues, while the other side feels things are moving well and the revolution is strong. No middle ground, it's US vs. THEM.
3. My students have it figured out. I had them write a short piece using vocab words (haha, I really just wanted insight without the discussion as we are an apolitical school) about their thoughts and feelings about this. Many said it was a vicious cycle of struggle, up rise, indifference and then repeat. The said much of it is due to lack of education in the poorer communities and that the numbers on either side don't change because of policies, socio-economic divide, and apathy that keep the game from changing. Many said they can't wait to live and that this country will die because it will become "unlivable". It tugged on the heart strings a little to know that many of these students have seen this their whole life, but I was comforted by the fact that many would go to university in the US or Europe.
4. Censorship. It may be alleged in some cases, but there is a lot of information and visuals that are not getting out. TV, radio, and the lack of paper for ink sources are just a few of the issues. When you have a Ministry of Communication and Information, it seems tough to think that everything will be on the up and up. It (censorship) apparently got so bad that the hacker group Anonymous hacked the government website and one of its twitter handles.
5. I don't know what will happen. I don't know where this goes from here. The opposition wants the President to resign, but I don't know if that is feasible. What chips do they (opposition) have? What can they use as leverage? If this is chess, they are basically asking for the other pieces to stay still and the other player to hand over their King. Maybe now the Leopoldo (an opposition leader) has turned himself in (the cause of the huge march in Caracas) they can use that as collateral, but I don't know. I'm not strong in the area of political theater, I just listen, read, and observe. It's not my fight, but it's hard to watch having invested interest in students, colleagues, and friends.
George Orwell once said, "He who controls the past, controls the future. He who controls the present, controls the past." I feel that this statement is living right now here. There seems to be a lot more riding on this series of protests and action than those that came before it.
The book 1984 (I just started reading it a few days ago) seems to have hit this and other worldly issues on the head. I just hope that Venezuela gets it right this time. I hope they figure out a way to make it work, because there is a lot of work and change that needs to happen to improve the quality of life here for its citizens.
It's crazy to think right now this situation is happening here, Thailand, and the Ukraine. It would be nice if things were good everywhere and we could all watch Ice Dancing and Curling, but they aren't.
Links
If you are interested in some of this stuff, check out these links and learn more.
To reiterate, things are ok here. We (school employees and leadership) are safe and smart. We don't put people at risk and respect the opinions of both sides. It's not our war, we are just observers and we are encouraged to not get involved. Friends and family there is no need to worry, but if you are nervous stay informed. If things go bad (I don't think they will) you'll hear from me.
That's all. Nothing fancy, nothing funny (hardly the time), just what I've seen and read.
"Nobody on
the roadNobody on the beachI feel it in the air…" -Don Henley (“Boys of Summer”)
As it currently stands, Venezuela is in a state of political
smolder. The events of last spring’s
election still vibrate the inner ear of many citizens and it seems that a cadre
of students and opposition supporters are blowing on the embers. They are calling it #LaSalida, meaning the exit or "The Output".
Today, throughout Venezuela there has been demonstrations,
protests and marches organized, in part, by Leopoldo Lopez
(if you use chrome click translate, if not go to google and plug it in. But you
should be using Chrome). He and Maria
Corina Machado have been the catalyst to sporadic protests over the past week
prior to today’s organized larger scale protest (including at the Caribbean
Series).
A protest tweet.
Last night the protests had begun to drum up the masses as
seen here. Students have had a very visible and influential
role with this round of demonstrations. Last
night, Morris and I saw several corners in Valencia were students and others
were banging on pots and pans, playing horns, and chanting while holding up
signs in support of their ideals (I would have taken pictures but I left my
phone at home).
The protestors have assembled near the El Carabobeño
newspaper and will march through Valencia displaying their distaste for Maduro
and the government, until they are stopped or arrive at their final destination
(information missing). The protestors
requested that during their march through the city that residents take their Wi-Fi
password off so they can live tweet the event (national media has been coy to
say the least).
Twitter announcement about keeping WIFI open.
Another view of the protests/march.
The recent reanimation of protesting does not come without
some disagreement, and not from just the current ruling party. The opposition itself has some internal
issues it is dealing with.
To paraphrase (from the Caracas Chronicle’s article):
1. Lack of Strategy: What specifically are they
protests? With so many issues what is it they are standing up against?
2. Lack of size (thus far). The protests have been small and scattered,
but if today garners more of a response things (media coverage and seriousness)
could change.
3. Blaming Capriles (Opposition presidential
candidate [defeated last election]) and creating a schism in the
party/movement. Many tweets knock his
approach and leadership, therefore hurting the overall assembly.
Regardless of what happens in wake of these demonstrations,
it is very interesting to see this type of grassroots protest. Many local friends are disillusioned by them
and ex-pats with experience hope they lead to a better living for our
friends.
A caricature of the current president found on twitter.
I have always had fight-for-your-rights/stand up for your
belief ideology for as long as I remember. My dad instilled it in me throughout
my child/young adulthood and reinforced it with the music of Bruce Springsteen,
the Eagles, Creedence, Neil Young, Pink Floyd and other 60’s and 70’s rock. Later, I found the Clash, Rage Against the
Machine, MC5, U2, and Pearl Jam to name a few. Backing that ideology with mouth
and actions has got me in trouble before, but those cases were nothing like
this. By no means are any of us taking to the streets, but several of us are
really interested in these types of events and the social climate that
follows. I am now able to take those
thoughts and feelings I have carried and see this situation through that
lens. Definitely makes for an
interesting day.
Here is a link to a ton of pictures from today's demonstrations. Here is the Miami Heralds coverage, and Reuters.
What’s New:
Started playing in a 6 v 6 soccer league again. This one
will go to the end of the year, and hopefully we’ll make the final.
My shoulder has hurt for roughly 6 weeks and is starting to
make my elbow and fingers feel weird, so I’ll be going to the doctor on Monday. That will for sure make the blog. They don’t have “appointments” here (lines),
so I’ll be sure to give a full report on the experience and cost.
Last night after our game, Morris and I went to three
grocery stores (you can’t find everything at one unless you go to Walma...Kromi,
but that was closed due to protests). I
needed a few small things to make dinner and pack for lunch (no lunch at school-
protests) and hoped it would be fast (relatively speaking). We went first to the Chinese grocery story,
Panda, and it was a shit show. They had
butter, toilet paper, sugar, rice, and Harina Pan so it was packed. Morris and I spent a few minutes (approx. 45)
in line where we were encountered by a woman who had just butter (four tubs)
and wanted to cut the line. Morris told
her (in Spanish), if it is ok with the rest of the line then she could. She stared at Morris, he stared back. I think she was surprised. She continued to
stare and even blinked (loser!). He met
her glare and raised it. More staring.
He went Medusa on her and she backed away to ask another guy. He let her.
After 45 mins the courtesy cut is gone, especially with a long line
behind. Just another way for us gringos
to be hated (DOWN WITH THE IMPERIALISTS!). I called that evening at Panda, Panda-monium (get it? Lame? ahhh.)
Had a meeting about the trip to Cuba (My buddy Marshall is a PowerPoint magician. 91 slides of cool animation, music, and info- well done). Should be awesome and will allow me to retrace some of Hemingway’s paths around the country.
Video of the Day:
I little video that contains a good message for Venezuela, the Ukraine, and even the US. Enjoy.
Everything ended ok in Valencia today. Some of my colleagues could not get home until several hours after school, but to my knowledge everyone is safe. Thanks for playing along, and sorry about the delay. Keep on rockin' in the free world. Until next time, KRS
I know the weather still hasn't broke up North, but I heard it's staying brighter longer (it's the little victories guys, easy for me to say I know) so that's good.
Thing's aren't too bad here lately, just more of the same. The inflation continues to rise, the sun is still warm, the breeze is still beautiful, and the days keep rolling.
Things only get interesting on the way home from work, but more on that later.
Weekend Recap
This weekend was pretty tame. Saturday am/early afternoon, Morris and I gathered up some friends after we finished working out and hit the mall to get Lorena a gift (she's been rather ill). While at the mall you can see the economic impact a little clearer than at other stores. Many stories have limited quantities of limited things, some are practically barren. We searched out a gift, and set out to pick up Morris' shoes he's had on hold, but failed on both parts.
We hit up a candy store to tide the hunger over before grabbing a burger and settling on just getting her some flowers. I forgot that as we drove around to get people and the flowers that traveling anywhere here takes about an hour. Store, someone's house, mall, restaurant- all an hour. School is the only quick ride (when traffic is good).
Anyway, we got to spend an hour and change with Lorena and she was (still is) doing better. Always nice to see someone on the mend.
The only problem was that the entire journey to do those things, get to her place, drop everyone off and head to a small gathering at the director's house took about six hours. By the time we got done, Morris and I stopped at the apartment, grabbed some drinks, and hit the road to the gathering. We hangout there for a few hours, enjoyed some good conversation and food before heading to Jon's for more banter.
A fun evening.
Kim's (Language Arts dept. head) had a bunch of us gringos over to watch the Super Bowl. We were even treated to some Chinese New Year Fireworks before the game. They weren't that loud, I mean if a howitzer in tunnel is your definition of loud, it was just under that. We ordered some Papa Johns and enjoyed a little Americana during the contest. The game was great from my end (I'm a Pete Carroll fan, and not a big Peyton guy). While some grew bored, the football coach came out of me and I enjoyed seeing one side executing and more polished than other. Everyone was pretty tired by the late in the third quarter so the crowd thinned quickly.
Chinese New Year fireworks. One coworker couldn't see them and though VZ was getting invaded (serious).
Today, It Finally Happened...
It was just another in Valencia, until we were three blocks from Leo's house. We're sitting at an intersection talking hoops or something and the light goes green. Morris proceeds following all modern rules of traffic. We get about 46% through the intersection and from the right shoots Dancia Patrick's middle-aged ,Venezuelan cousin.
This chick is riding dirty, "NO COPS, NO STOPS!!!"
Leo calls it out like the veteran spotter he is.
Morris locks 'em up and turns hard left.
Danica locks them up and keeps pushing forward.
The Space Wagon gets speared by the French Peugeot of destruction.
The Peugeot of Punishment. And the Space Wagon's clippings.
"CRASH, WHAMMO, BLAMMY, KERBOOM (add any early comic words you want)!"
Crazy isn't it? I look super fat as a shadow.
We are now victims of getting T-boned.
"Ah, it'll buff out."
I've always thought it was a matter of time until we got in an accident here. Driving here is like the old Nintendo game, "Off Road"
This is almost to scale of some roads here. We don't have pot holes, we have craters.
Don't worry WE (the royal we, as in Morris) were wearing our seat belts (he remembers having to pay that bribe months ago). The three of us piled out of the car and inspected the damage. The van was still drivable even though she was missing a light and the right front quarter panel (I've watched NASCAR once) were smashed. No amount of mascara was going to cover the damage up, reconstructive surgery is needed.
Taking bets now on when this gets fixed. August? September?
Leo hops out and survey's the scene, writes down the car's plate number while Morris gets his information out and heads to talk to the woman. I take pictures and mental notes for the blog.
We try to encourage her to move her car out of the road and onto a driveway, she refuses and a choir of heavenly horns honk throughout the hour we stood there.
As Morris spoke to the woman, Leo and I got the shrapnel out of the road. I felt like we were picking up the pieces of Optimus Prime while dodging cars. It was kind of like a Frogger knock of game (it would make a good iPhone/Android game).
Leo figured we could at least sell this previously owned light.
We stood around for a while and Morris called the school. They sent over an employee to assist, but not before we saw a police car with two cops drive by the scene and not stop. They were both on cell phones, so I'm sure there were bigger fish to fry.
A our friends came by to grab Morris and take him to his house to get one paper he did not have in his car. Leo and I stood there discussing school, administrative strategies, and standardized test (I love to pick his brain as he's been a teacher/coach/Asst. Principal/Principal/Superintendent). While we were standing there talking another squad car passed the scene and didn't stop. Only one cop was on her phone this time.
Finally, Morris returned and Leo and I got rides back to our respective apartments. Morris hung around for another hour and change waiting to see if the woman wanted to call the transits workers and go through their process or settle it within the two parties. Danica wanted to call the transits until her daughter told her it was her fault.
You see, the school employee drove Danica to her house where her daughter was. The daughter screamed at the mom and had no idea that she had left with the car. The daughter talked to the insurance company on the phone and then returned to the scene with her mom and the CIC employee. Upon arriving at the scene the daughter tried to have Morris allow her to say it was her that was driving and not her mom. She knew her mom was at fault.
The mom wanted to call transit because she believed that it was Morris' fault and that his car magically defied physics and used super thrusters to fly right into her car (that was running a red light). The daughter again yelled at the mom.
She screamed, "MOM, YOU ARE DRUNK!"
Literally, she was. 4:30pm on a Tuesday, drunk as a skunk and behind the wheel. Booyah.
A little after 6:45pm Morris called me and told me he was home and to come listen to his story. It was hilarious.
"Only in Venezuela" he said.
Five Things I Think
1. I think the inflation is beyond crazy. When I first got here the parallel rate (black market) was about Bs30 for $1. As of today, it was Bs81 for $1. I don't know how local hires and other citizens do it. I bought a loaf of bread, four rolls, and a 16.5oz jar of Skippy peanut butter for Bs524.00. Take that at the official rate (Bs6.3 for $1) and it cost $83.17. At the parallel rate, it cost $6.47. Think about that next time you're getting groceries.
What do you even say to this?
2. The flight situation is wild. A month ago, a colleague of mine got tickets to Miami for him and his family for around BSs15,000. That same ticket is about Bs48,000. The ticket tripled in roughly a month.
3. A group of CIC teachers (including myself) played a local club basketball team. After being down nearly 10 points early in the game we clawed our way back to win by 6. The game got really physical down the stretch. One player in a Dirk Nowitizki was making some tough shots off a "Euro-step" (see the video below for a demonstration) and would yell out for a foul after every drive.
He and I got tangled a few times and he fouled me hard. I pulled a punk move and handed him the ball. He swatted it away. Later with the game winding down I held the ball and took repeated shots from him, but no foul was called. It was OK. I passed the ball off, hammered him the next time down, and then shut him down the last two minutes. Game two is tomorrow and I'm giddy like a school girl to D him up.
4) I think it is amazing that I lost my wallet five months ago...and found this past Thursday. Actually, an obrero found it while washing my friend's car. We both had extensively tore the vehicle up and thought it was lost outside the pizza place instead of the car. Turns out it was actually buried in the ride somewhere and was dug out by the obrero who washed it. Five and a half months after losing it, it turns up and has every card, ID, and BsF in it. Weird.
Last seen in early August, reappeared late January.
5) I sometimes feel like "The Dude" in this clip (basically this is a shameless memoriam to my favorite Philip Seymour Hoffman role).
That's all I've got from this week. Nothing really going on in the next few days besides seeing a blues show with some co-workers. Hopefully some dudes just shred it.
A couple of shout outs:
Congrats to Joe and Robin Witt on their daughter, Helen. Couldn't be happier for you guys (she's going to love that Facebook picture in 16 years)!
Another MAC Coach of the Year Award to my Uncle JD Lueders (head coach of Clinton Wrestling), well done. Now get some hardware at State.
Nice job Facebook. Creating yet another application to force other's lives in peoples faces! I'm crass, but just watch your timeline and see all the "movies" you'll see in the next three days. I remember just watching home movies or looking at pictures, the good old days are gone!
Have a great rest of the week. Here's a little positivity from my favorite group Pearl Jam:
